Corfu sailing holidays

The bucolic landscape is a blend of long slender cypresses, ancient silvery-gleaming light-green olive trees and a capital with Italian flair.
During Venetian times a premium was paid for every new olive tree planted; now these have grown into forests reaching 25 m high.

Even back in the late 19th c. the picturesque island with its lush green landscapes, peaceful villages and superb bathing coves, was attracting holiday guests. The islands interior is the most delightful, particularly in the mountainous north, with its secluded towns and villages where times seems to stand still. Heavy tourism, however, has left its mark on Corfu.

• All Greek islands
• Ionian overview
• Corfu, North Ionian
• Lefkas, Meganisi
• Kefalonia, Ithaca
• Zakynthos
• Sailing itineraries Ionian islands

Mythology and history

Corfu is thought to be the Homeric Scheria, the land of the Phaeacians and their king Alcinous.
Odysseus, who was stranded on the shores of Scheria during his Odyssey, was brought to Alcinous by Nausikaa, the beautiful daughter of the king. There he related his adventures and was finally able to continue his journey home in one of the Phaeacian king's ships.

Corfu was colonized by Corinth in 734 BCE, but developed into a powerful State, which threatened the mother city. A naval victory by the Corinthians over the Corcyraeans in the Sybota Islands – probably round the mouth of the River Kalamas – was a major factor in the outbreak of the Peloponnesian War.

In 229 BCE the island was captured by Rome, and when the Empire was finally split in two in 395 CE became part of the Byzantine Empire.

The medieval name of the island is believed to be derived from the Greek Koryphoi: “Peaks”.

From 1386 to 1797 Corfu was held by Venice, thereafter it was briefly part of the Napoleonic empire; and in 1815, together with the rest of the Ionian islands, it was assigned to Britain. It was reunited with Greece in 1864.

In the course of its eventful history the island was frequently devastated and plundered, so that it has preserved few relics of ancient or medieval times.

Corfu island

Corfu town

The appearance of the island's capital, Corfu - Κέρκυρα, situated on a promontory on the east coast, is dominated by two mighty fortresses with the elegant old town spread out between them.

The old town has been added to the UNESCO's list of World Heritage sites. It is a maze of lanes spanned by buttress arches alternating with splendid palazzi and ornate wrought-iron balconies, the product of Venetian, French and British occupations.

Most ports lies on the northern edge of town, towered over by the massive New Fortress (1546 – 1588). From these harbours, the main shopping street leads to the Spianada “esplanade”, one of the most enchanting squares in all of Greece.

The west side, with its arcades and cafés, is called Liston.

Standing on the north side is the Neo-classical former Governor's Palace (1818 – 1823), built for the British High Commissioner and later becoming the summer residence of the Greek king in 1864. A bridge on the east side of the esplanade leads across a canal to the old Fortress.

Spreading out to the north of Nikiforou Theotoki street is the picturesque old part of town, Kambiello, with its Italianate and Venetian-style houses and a number of interesting ecclesiastical buildings.

Visit the Archaeological Museum plus the following marvels south of Garitsas bay: the Mon Repos Villa, The Church of Iasona (Jason) and Sosipatros (Sosipater) – dating from the 12th c. – who brought Christianity to Corfu in 45 CE, the Temple of Kardaki and the Temple of Artemis  

There are four options, ranging from anchorage to marina:

• Spilia: the “new” marina, not safe in strong notherlies
• Mandraki: stunning place and best shelter against the prevailing summer winds; permanent moorings; TEL 6945 377674, VHF Ch 68
• Garitsas bay: anchorage south of the citadel
• NAOK: directly south; VHF Ch 72, TEL 6972 117 001

Petriti

Petriti - Πετρίτη has remained remarkably unspoilt by tourism and still resembles a small fishing community. Besides the fresh fish there are also flavoursome vegetables and fruits cultivated on this fertile estuary.

The port is fully open to the southeasterlies and over 5 Bft you should leave for Benitses.
If there are berths available go stern or bows-to the mole between the street light (stone!) and the extremity.
Often the outside of the mole is used, yet commercial shipping can cause a nasty swell.
Solid holding in mud/weed, so in summer you anchor in the bay and go ashore by dinghy: steer towards “Taverna Mythos”.

Lefkimmi

Lefkimmi - Λευκίμμη is the hidden gem & capital of south Corfu. The river mouth – Skala Potamou Lefkemmi – might seem the logical entrance to town, yet the river Bouka is too shallow.

The river leads to Lefkimmi, 2 km inland, a town that is relatively untouched by tourism and has managed to stay traditional in a charming way.   “Agkali /Agali Café Restaurant” facing the canal.

Palaiokastritsa

Palaiokastritsa - Παλαιοκαστρίτσα is nested in exceptionally beautifully environs. Explore the Monastery of Panagia Theotokos (Spiridonas), built in 1228 on the peninsula on the outskirts of town. Adorned in luxuriant flowers, it presents a pretty picture with its campanile and a small museum.

The pontoons in the middle of Alipa port are for locals boats, whereas visiting yachts can go stern-to the mole (or use the small pontoon near the light, when present); the already large fleet of tiny motor yachts (day trips without captain) is taking up more berths, post-COVID   ; strong southerlies and easterlies can cause huge swell in the area.

With north or east winds, you can anchor in Liapades bay around Cape Kosteri; good holding in sand.
In lighter air the anchorages directly north and east of the port can be used, mind the abundant rocks, islets and reefs.
Spiridonos bay is my crew's favourite. Moreover, you will no doubt appreciate the Corfu Aquarium.

Ag Georgios

The wide bay of Ag Georgios - Άγιος Γεώργιος – with its long curved beach and aquamarine waters – is guarded by the peninsular Cape Arilla, which yields two additional anchorages:

• At the beach in the north corner of Agios Georgios bay
• East of the isthmus of Cape Arilla Lat Long
• West of the isthmus: Porto Timoni bay , which is open to the prevailing NW but otherwise a glorious spot Lat Long

At the isthmus you will find the path that leads to the Agios Stylianós Chapel which is almost hidden in the rocks.

The east part of the mole is to be preferred: deeper and with less rocks. You might want to go bows-to often with a long line (up to 10 m !) and use the dinghy as a ferry to keep the rudder out of harm's way. A strong WSW will hug the coast and locally become a WNW or even a NW wind.

The anchorage of Kassiopi is in the Imerolia bay just to the west. Anchor in the east cove; open to the north-west (Eagleray mentions safe upto 5 Bft); plans for a marina in this bay with first 60 berths and eventually 300+ berths.

Ag Stefanos

Ag Stefanos - Άγιος Στέφανος bay is a very solid anchorage in the prevailing NW winds. In the approach from the north keep well clear of the coast and the lighted Serpa Reef

The GWP suggests that it is possible to anchor and take a line to the pier in Ag Stefanos, but depths are less than 2½ in the vicinity and commercial ships can send in a swell.
We haven't tried one of the “wooden jetty + taverna diner” combinations.

Notable anchor bays further south:

• Kerasia beach; the homonymous taverna has gourmet fish dishes
• Kouloura; a small fishermen's port (too shallow), anchor near the beach
• Kalami; beach, tourists and tavernas, not our cup of tea…
• Gialiskari Lat Long the best option in easterlies
• Agni; three piers to take a long! line to – allow for possible swell – and visit “Korina's Kitchen & Cocktail Bar“.

Ypsos

Ypsos - Ύψος port is touristy, and therefore often overlooked, yet offers allround shelter and good holding Lat Long Go bows-to the breakwater, which has a wide flat top but smaller ballasting on the bottom.

On both failed attempts to conquer Corfu, the Ottomans made landfall in Gouvia bay, and – also because of the secluded nature of the bay and surrounding forests – the Venetians chose to establish their arsenal (or ship yard) here. Three docks with arches, skeleton-like, can still be seen near the marina.

Diapontia islands

The Orthonian or Diapontia islands are an archipelago north-west of Corfu, consisting of a number of islets with increasing numbers in both tourists and inhabitants – but still very much idyllic – Othoni (Italian “Fano”, meaning lamp), Erikousa (Italian “Merlera”), Mathraki, as well as some smaller isles plus a broad range of rocks and dangerous reefs.
From Othonoi it is just 47 NM to Italy's Santa Maria di Leuca.

The anchorage of Ammos is open to the southerlies; good holding; anchor in 3 m away from ferry quay; we used a tripline here; tavernas ashore.
The newer harbour of Aflakia offers allround protection, the buoys that mark the adjacent shoals could well be repositioned again due to continuous dredging; depths will increase; final approach from SE; moor alongside on either side of the entrance.

Fyki bay is a gorgeous and safe anchorage in southern winds on the north side of the island Lat Long drag the second anchor onto the beach or take a line to the isolated rock directly west of the Fyki beach; the use of a tripline is advised.

Paxos & Antipaxos

Located to the south of Corfu island are the isles of Paxos and Antipaxos - Παξοί και Αντίπαξοι, which are numbered among the most attractive destinations in the North Ionian because of the exceptionally picturesque landscape, its exciting coves and fine diving locations. Alternative names are Paxi and Antipaxi or Paxoi and Antipaxoi.
See Greek chart terms.

Innumerable olive trees and cypresses dot the countryside of Paxos, its west coast features stunning cliffs and numerous caves (called “gráves” by the locals), arches and domes. Moreover, even a few of the endangered Monk Seals make their home here. Drop anchor at the Achai beach + Blue Cave Lat Long and the Sea cave of Ypapanti which served as a hiding-place for submarines Lat Long
The east coast runs along gently and also has a few pretty pebble beaches.
There is a Venetian fortress from 1423 as well as the former Panagia Monastery on an islet just offshore of the harbour and main town of Gaios.

To the south-east of Paxos is its smaller, rocky “sister island”, Antipaxos, with alluring, isolated beaches, especially Vrika and Voutoumi on the east coast. There are a few inhabitants raising sheep and producing delicious wine.

Prevailing wind is NW. In N – NE winds >6 Bft it will be difficult to enter Lakka bay. Furthermore, strong westerlies will cause too much swell near the village area.
Taking a line ashore on the west Lat Long – as GWP suggest – and still have 1 m of water under the keel will require a very long line for most vessels .
There are 3 excellent local restaurants: “O Diogenis Taverna”, “Nionios Taverna” and “Stasinos Garden Restaurant”.

Longos

Longos - Λόγγος is a charming fishing village with fish restaurants where the little port, unfortunately, is fully reserved for the fishing boats, but sometimes it is possible to use the extremity or the outside of the mole. The bay is open to the N – SE; Lithária rocks and Paxoi reef make the approach from the south-east and east difficult   ; two spots to take a line ashore: Lat Long and Lat Long

Kipiadi

The bay of Kipiadi - Κιπιάδι is a surprisingly good anchorage with just flora & fauna and a beach Lat Long

Gaios

Gaios - Γάιος is the main port of Paxos which attracts herds of tourists from Corfu. The village with its Symi-coloured mansions and wooded surroundings is indeed very appealing. Italian flagged yachts also arrive in abundance at this port of entry.

When entering or leaving the canal through the north passage, keep well clear of the larger islet's NW tip. The southern passage is uncomfortably shallow. Arrive early to secure a berth; anchors will cross and ferries will create chaos and wash.
Between Parga on the mainland and Gaios port is the Panagia / Madonna reef.  

Agrapidia

Agrapidia - Αγραπιδιά is a tiny harbour for local fishing boats on Antipaxos. Anchor north of the breakwater and take a line to it. Amazing clear waters, pebbled beach and lush tree-clad hills; open to the N – NE Lat Long

Kalamitsa

Kalamitsa - Καλαμίτσα on the south-east coast of Antipaxos is spectacular so you won't be alone, but the bay is long enough to provide privacy. Sea caves on the coast directly south of Kalamitsa; the bay is open to the S – E; not always good holding in sand / weed / stones Lat Long

Further reading

• See chart symbols for the meaning of e.g.
• Mediterranean mooring and anchoring
• The sailing season

Mainland ports

Pagania

The dogleg bay of Pagania - Παγανιά offers allround shelter. Like this whole northernmost coast of mainland Greece, this bay is home to several fish farms (now also in the W cove).

Most of the Kalamas estuary is protected by the “Natura 2000” program. Dozens of trails, info at the beach and at the visitor centre.
The rich history of the area can be seen at:

• Gitani: Near the river dam: City of Hellenistic times.
• Mastilitsa: On the homonymous hill in the center of the plain: Settlement of Hellenistic times.
• Strovil: On the conical hill: Byzantine fortress.
• Sagiada Tower: Inside the sea in the salt marsh area. Medieval fort.

Igoumenitsa

In the approach of Igoumenitsa - Ηγουμενίτσα there is Valtou bay – south of the old Kalamas river estuary – which has three coves with allround shelter. Only the west cove currently hosts a fish farm; the larger central anchorage is premium.

Igoumenitsa channel is a VTS, but you can motor just outside the buoys where depths are sufficient.

The waterfront of Igoumenitsa is one enormous stretch of concrete, the former new port can be found “under” the park, a wooded hill within the cityscape. Go alongside or stern-to where directed.
In 2016 plans for a marina were drawn: €40 million and 361 berths… Still no progress in August 2021.   
Visit the Archaeological Museum

Syvota / Mourtos

The name of Mourtos - Μούρτος village was changed in 1959 into Syvota - Σύβοτα to honour the massive naval Battle of Sybota, which was fought in these waters in 433 BCE between the Corinthian and the renegade Corfu fleets, leading up to the Peloponnese War.

The minimal depths between Ag Nikolaos island and mainland are 2₂ m according to most charts (C-Map gives 2₅ , but we made no attempt); currents will match a sustained wind direction.
East of the Mourtemeno islets – in End Bay – is a swimming area, less room to swing at anchor.

Arilla

Arilla - Αρίλλα is a tiny port at the south end of a tremendous crescent beach, built under a rocky promontory. Good holding in sand; open to N – NE; catamarans can moor at the small pier, most monohulls will have to go stern-to the breakwater Lat Long

There will be a lack of berths in the height of season, yet the surplus of tourists in the myriad and clamorous tavernas & ouzeries mean you will be more content in Valtou bay anyway.

Likewise inside the port of Valtos there won't be plenty of room for visiting yachts (mind the mooring lines and chains on the bottom). The alternative is to anchor on either side of the new breakwater, or go bows-to or stern-to to the pier or breakwater.

The Venetian castle that guards the port is a great exponent of Venetian architecture, with interesting details, such as the Lion of Venice in the entrance, emblems of Ali Pasha's “two-headed eagles”, and a secret path to the sea; all surrounded by cypress trees.
Also very worthwhile are the impressive ruins of the Ali Pasha castle, 5½ km uphill, with grand views over the bays.

Agiou Ioannou

Agiou Ioannou - Αγίου Ιωάννου is a magnificent enclosed bay offering allround shelter in Ay Gianniki beach Lat Long (sand and mud; meagre holding) and especially in Skouliki bay Lat Long (sand and weed, better holding). In light air you can anchor anywhere; in the east use a tripline.
When entering, in front of the first cove on port, there is a fresh water spring
Prevailing winds are NW – NNW. In earlier days the Parga fishing fleet wintered here.

Fanari /Ammoudia

The bay of Fanari /Ammoudia - Φανάρι / Αμμουδιά rapidly decreases in depth near the eastern shores. Anchor in the north-west of the bay and use the dinghy to get to “Roxani Taverna”   at the north side of the village.

The depths of the adjacent river Acheron are often insufficient for keel yachts to reach the quay on the northern bank. This famous river flows gently into the Ionian sea and the entrance – roughly 25 m wide – can easily be identified. In mythology, the Acheron was known as the “river of woe”, and was one of the five rivers of the Greek underworld.

A nearby bay to the south offers turquoise waters and shelter from northerlies Lat Long

Ligia

The approach to Ligia / Lygia - Λυγιά port is precarious with shoals extending over 60 m out to the west and south, and the narrow entrance is silted up to 2₅ m. Leaving or entering in rough (southerly) winds is ill-advised. If possible take a line to the breakwater and go bows-to the mole; good holding; sandy bottom with stones.
The nearby village has several tavernas, but aim for the “Ψαροταβέρνα SIMOS”, the fish restaurant overlooking the beach to the south.