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Guidance notes to Croatia

Compiled by Gerhard Leahy - Sailing out of Trogir

For yacht charters with children or seniors on board, I would recommend short distances as this will lead to more sailing in the prevalent winds which are usually a light NW sea breeze in the afternoons. If you plan to go too far and see distant islands you will end up motoring and there are wonderful harbours closer to your base which are also quieter than Hvar or Korcula.

Sailing is very good in the channel between Brač and Hvar and the channel between Brač and the mainland eecause there are always decent afternoon breezes here. I usually stay away from marinas as they are very expensive and it is much more peaceful and enjoyable under anchor.

A marina such as Masilinka will cost you €70 - €100. A better option is a free anchorage or if you prefer to avoid a dingy and a pier wall in the small villages will cost much less particularly if you don’t use water and electricity.

When anchoring in Croatian harbours you can be aggressive about getting in as close as possible to shore as depths stay at a minimium of 3m close to the shore, and into the inner part of the harbour. I usually carry the spare anchor on the aft quarter, drop my main anchor, go astern to within 10-15 feet of the shore, drop my stern anchor to hold the boat in place and then swim ashore with a shore line. Then its usually just a matter of pulling your dingy in the short distance of the shore line to get ashore. I appreciate that you may want to walk ashore and I bear this in mind when recommending the following harbours.

I would start with anchoring for a swim in U. Sveta Fumija within an hour of Trogir to give everyone a chance of a nice swim to start their holiday. 1 mile east is U. Tatinja which is a beautiful clear water anchorage. There is a club ashore run by an Irishman where you can eat and do a range of swim activities; wonderful for kids. After your swim you could sail to U. Rogač on Solta and tie up at Restaurant Passerella (021-654505 owned by Damir, a guy I always have a few drinks with; great seafood platter and ask for the good local red wine limited to an annual 500 bottles.

Otherwise when in Craotia just drink the house wine and they generally overcharge) ring in advance to book a free berth and if you cant get one its cheap to tie up at the pier wall. Alternatively, it may be better to use Rogač as a stop on your last night before returning to Trogir as you can diesel up there and avoid the queue in Trogir on the Friday.

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Sutivan on the north west coast of Brač is a lovely typical Croatian old village and makes a great first night stop. There are usually a couple of berths available at the pier and if not you can anchor just outside in calm conditions. I have always managed to get a berth there, however. The harbour guy is Nitski but I can't find his number. The best restaurant is Dora, managed by Bartul (0038598-9377365) and if you are booking there he may have Nitski’s number who would hold two berths for you. Berthing charges are cheap.

U. Osibova on the south west tip of Brač is probably my favourite anchorage in Croatia with great swimming and snorkelling. There is a very good fish restaurant within 500 metres of the harbour on the road to Milna and they will probably send a boat out to you asking you if you would like to dine with them. Alternatively, you can walk approximately 1,5 km to Milna and your parents will enjoy the stations of the cross along the road.

South of Osibova is U. Pribinja. Another great fish restaurant here in U. Mala Vira is Konoba ringo and if you ring them to dine they will let you use one of their moorings free. Alternatively go under your own anchor with a shore line and dine in the much cheaper hotel in the sw corner of U. Mala Vira.

I would recommend anchoring off the famous beach at Bol for lunch and a swim and then sail over to Jelsa for the evening. Jelsa is nicer and much cheaper to stay in than the marina at Vrboska. Alternatively there is a beautiful anchorage beside a beach just west of Rt Glavika on the entrance to Vrboska and this makes a lovely calm place to anchor and swim overnight with a pub/café ashore and a short walk to vrboska if you wish.

Strari Grad is a great town with a great restaurant (Faria or pharia is the name) but it is very expensive to tie up at he wall there. You can anchor in L. Zavala and walk the short distance to the town if you prefer.

For an easy trip with guaranteed sailing I would suggest Trogir-Sutivan-Osibova-Jelsa-Pribinja-Rogač-Trogir.

For a more adventurous trip I would recommend; Trogir-Osibova-Jelsa-U. Rasotica (a deserted and wonderful sheltered anchored at the east end of Brač)-Omis or Split-Sutivan-Trogir.

If you are anxious to travel longer distances I would recommend; Trogir-Maslinica (anchor in U. sesula for free or take one of the free moorings from the restaurant which is the best around; short walk into Maslinica if you prefer.
U. Vinogradisce (this is a great and very popular anchorage with the best offshore restaurants and bars; try Toto. Anchor off the east shore and take a line ashore. Make sure no southerly storms are forecast and if there are go to the marina in L. Palmezana. It is a ten minute walk across the island to the marina and you can get a taxi from here to Hvar, which is worth seeing.
Vis: Good town to visit but get there early to ensure you get a space at the wall especially if bad weather forecast
U Mostir on Scedro (great place with small fabulous restaurant run by Paolo his brother and father. Anchor or take one of the free restaurant buoys.) Rogač-Trogir. If there is a sirocco forecast for thde early part of your week I would suggest Trogir-Rogoznica-Primosten-Sibinik-Krka waterfalls–Drevinik-Trogir.

Wherever you go most enjoyable part aside from the sailing is anchoring in whatever little bay you pass and swiming and eating on deck. I hope you have a great time.

Compiled and shared by Gerhard Leahy


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